Step 1.  Program the PIC

The PIC12F629 is programmed before installation into the PCB.  There are several programmers available to do this job.  The programmer pictured on the left is the PICStart Plus available from Microchip, the manufacturer of the PIC.  There are several low cost programmers available under $20 such as the JDM or the El Cheapo.  Spark Fun is a good place to get a low cost JDM programmer.

Use the HEX file available on the software page to program the PIC with the programmer and its associated software.  Make sure the software verifies the programming before proceeding with construction.

Step 2.  Install the capacitors and resonator

Capacitor C1 is a 10uF tantalum capacitor and is polarized.  The capcitor will have a bar or + mark above the lead that is positive.  Install the capcitor so the positive lead is in the hole in the PCB that has a + mark next to it.  Spread the legs apart on the solder side so that it does not fall out during soldering.

Capacitor C2 is a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor and does not have polarity.  Install it in either orientation and spread its legs apart on the solder side.

The ceramic resonator Y1 also does not have polarity and can be installed in either orientation.  Tack solder one of the legs from the component side so that it does no fall out.

Flip the PCB over to the solder side and solder all of the leads to the PCB.  Clip the leads with diagnoal cutter as close to the solder as possible but be careful not to damage or crack the solder joint.

Step 3.  Install the PIC

Insert the PIC into the PCB with the notch in the package matching the notch shown on the PCB silkscreen.  Tack solder one lead to prevent it from falling out.  Flip the PCB over and solder the rest of the leads.

Step 4a.  Install the MTA header

Insert the 4 pin MTA header into the PCB at position JP1.  Solder the pins from underneath the PCB.

Step 5a.  Solder the wires to the PCB

Solder four wires to the PCB.  The wires should be cut to 5-6 inches (125-150 mm) in length.

Step 6a.  Attach the MTA receptacle

Attach the wire from the negative pad (black in the picture) on the PCB to left-most position on the MTA connector when the wires are oriented downwards.  Attach the wire from the D pad (white in the picture) next followed by the wire from the C pad (yellow in the picture).

NOTE: If all three axes on the DRO-350 have QCC-100's attached, you have the option to attach the wire from the positive pad (red in the picture) to the last position of the MTA connector and skip the next two steps.  If you do this, then move the jumper across pins 3-4 on JP8 to pins 1-2.  This will provide the 5V that the QCC-100 needs to operate over the positive wire on the MTA connector.

Step 7a.  Crimp the terminal

Strip the end of the wire from the positive pad (red in the picture) and attach it to the crimp terminal.  This is most easily done by soldering the stripped wire to the terminal and then folding over the crimp tabs with needle-nose pliers.

Step 8a.  Install the housing

Slip the housing over the finished terminal paying attention to the small tab on the terminal that locks it in place.  This tab is installed into the housing on the same side as the hole it engages into on the housing.

Step 4a.  Attach the male mini-DIN connector

Strip the end of the wires from a four wire cable.  A telephone cable, as shown in the picture, works well.  Solder the wires to the four pin male mini-DIN connector.  The cable should be cut to 5-6 inches (125-150 mm) in length.  Looking at the mini-DIN connector from the wire side, the following graphic shows the solder connections with the wire colors as shown in the photo at left.

Male Mini-DIN Connector Viewed from the Wire Side

Step 5a.  Solder the wires to the PCB

Before soldering the wires to the PCB, slide the mini-DIN cover over the cable.  Attach the wires to their respective pads as shown in the previous step.

Step 6a.  Attach the female mini-DIN connector

Strip the end of the wires from a four wire cable.  Solder the wires to the four pin female mini-DIN connector.  The cable should be cut to 5-6 inches (125-150 mm) in length.  Looking at the mini-DIN connector from the wire side, the following graphic shows the solder connections with the wire colors as shown in the photo at left.

Female Mini-DIN Connector Viewed from the Wire Side

Step 7a.  Solder the wires to the PCB

Before soldering the wires to the PCB, slide the mini-DIN cover and the heat-shrink tubing over the cable.  The positive wire (yellow in the picture) should not be connected to the pad on the PCB.  Attach the other three wires to their respective pads as shown in the previous step.  Solder a separate wire to the positive pad on the PCB and cut it to 5-6 inches (125-150 mm) in length.

NOTE: If all three axes on the DRO-350 have QCC-100's attached, you have the option to attach the positive wire on the cable (yellow in the picture) to the positive pad on the PCB and skip the next step.  If you do this, then move the jumper across pins 3-4 on JP8 to pins 1-2.  This will provide the 5V that the QCC-100 needs to operate over the positive wire on the mini-DIN connector.

Step 8a.  Apply the heat-shrink tubing

Use a heat gun or high wattage hair drier to shrink the heat-shrink tubing over the PCB with the cables sticking out of both ends.